About Pekin Bantams & their care
Pekin Bantams are not the same breed as Cochin Bantams. Pekins are a true bantam breed, whereas Cochin Bantams are a 'bantamised' version of the large breed Cochin.
Australia, UK, NZ, RSA and a few other countries have very specific and different standards for both Pekin Bantams and Cochin Bantams. A detailed care sheet for optimal health of Pekins can be found here PEKIN BANTAM CARESHEET HOUSING As large a run as possible, these bantams do not do well in battery cage-type setups. Allow free ranging in safe place under supervision as they are unable to fly and therefore unable to protect themselves against predators. Pekins can tolerate cold but cannot tolerate being wet. Dry, clean sleeping boxes and nesting boxes are important, pref slightly elevated off the ground. I use plastic boxes with lids, which I cut out a small hole relatively high up which they go into at night. Change bedding every 2 weeks minimum and sprinkle Karbadust on top of clean bedding.. Shavings on the bottom and clean Eragrostis grass over that. Don’t use straw or oat hay as if they eat it they choke. Some hay attracts mites, if so, use shavings only. DIET Morning meal: Cooked pigeon racing mix with some Starter / Grower or Laying Meal mixed in. Very fine milled Lucerne meal soaked for 10 minutes and added in (high in Calcium and Protein and a green food which all omnivores need. Grate non-toxic vegetables such as carrot, zucchini, etc and feed at least 2 -3 times / week. Feed food in shade to prevent spoiling. Afternoon meal: dry mixed fowl food (Chick Chick #2) and Starter / Grower / Laying Meal or Pellets and a heaped teaspoon of striped sunflower per bird. Apple Cider Vinegar in correct proportions in water helps stop sour crop (esp in Summer) and keeps water fresh. Fresh water twice a day. 3 x a week give Carmino+ in water. It is about the best vitamin / mineral supplement available. HEALTH Once a month do an overall health check including nails and beak, and treat if necessary. Pekins don’t wear their nails down if on lawn because of their feather feet. Long nails get damaged and fall off and hens will break eggs if their nails are long. Every week check for feather mites and scaley leg mite. Both of these can kill chickens. For feather mites use Karbadust on bird and in bedding. Spray run with KarbaSpray or Cypermethrin every couple of months. For prevention of scaley leg mite use Kruline (available from Kruvet in Pretoria and very cheap at R120 for 750ml) a mix of Frontline and Deadline and the very best you can get. Do not overdose as it’s strong. Just a small squirt on legs and feet. For feet already infected with scaley leg mite use Kruline once and the next day make a mixture of Vaseline and Ultrum Flea and Tick Powder and spread liberally all over leg, leg feathers, feet and foot feathers. IT WORKS! Do not leave birds with scaley leg mite. It is very painful and will guaranteed kill them eventually as their feet disintegrate. Check for Bumblefoot regularly and treat accordingly. Prevention far better than cure! Deworming: alternate dewormers regularly to avoid resistance. Speak to Kruvet about suitable dewormers. Your birds were last dewormed with Piperazine and Swavet Tapeguard. Do NOT over deworm, but, bear in mind they will CONTINUALLY pick up worms from eggs deposited by the wild birds especially if their feed and water is accessible to wild birds. GENERAL Rake and sweep cages out every 2nd day. Bantams with feathered feet especially CANNOT live in their own excrement – it causes illness and is a breeding ground for bacteria, mould, viruses and parasites. Even in clean setups mites and lice can appear so the chances are even greater in dirty cages. Breeding success will be minimal if birds are infected with parasites. Eggs will be contaminated if laid in dirty boxes and chances of hatching are greatly reduced. Hens with mites will be restless and probably won’t sit well, or they might sit and eventually die on the nest. Pekins lay every 2nd day and if you wish them to go broody but to use their eggs, then give them some ‘fake’ eggs : white stones or porcelain eggs from a poultry supply. To keep the feathers from becoming sunburned, runs should have lots of shade and clean floors. However birds do need Vit D exposure daily so morning sun is best. HOT WEATHER WARNING! Runs should be in the shade, with plenty of ventilation. To keep the area cooler, water well at night. If necessary, gently hose them off with cold water. If birds show heat exhaustion, gently and carefully hold them in a bucket of cool water to cool down. Ensure nest boxes are cool and out of the sun. Use large flat bowls for water to increase humidity when it is very dry. Make sure they drink plenty of water so it must be clean and cold all the time. Pekins cannot handle high temperatures and harsh direct sun, and hens can become dehydrated and eggbound. A few minutes in the intense heat will kill chicks. |